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Here we go, pack one the Chassis. I was not going to start this build until winter, but it has been a real wet afternoon so I decided to make a start. todays date 16/09/07
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The manual recommends you should, fit the beams to the blocks first, and then fit the blocks to the chassis I could not get the holes to line up because one of the beams was slightly longer, so I have had to adjust it. |
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Here’s pack 2, not a lot to this pack. |
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Glitch in pack 2, the manual say to connect this bar to the swinging arm and the chassis, but not to over tighten the slide. It won’t attach to the chassis, there is 8 mm gap see next photo. |
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Pack 3, no problems. |
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I had to take this to bits again, because I hadn’t made sure the cog was sat right down on the bearing. |
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Pack 4.
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Pack 5, |
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Pack 6, real 1/6th scale leaf springs. |
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Pack 7, is the rear leaf spring, not a lot of difference, it says in the manual that it is held in place by the weight of the vehicle, I might have to add some pins to hold it in place. |
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Pack 8 |
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Pack 9. After assembling the pack, I tried to turn the worm drive, and it wouldn’t. So I stripped down again and I noticed that the worm drive was slightly higher than the gear, the alloy case was stopping the drive from turning. |
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Here you can see the marks left from the worm drive. |
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This was my solution, to cut a 5mm wedge out of the casing; this allows the worm gear to turn. |
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Pack 9 fitted to chasses.
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Pack 10, the front wheels.
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Fitting the bearings wasn’t a problem and fitting the hub to the wheel went ok. |
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But, you have to get the rubber tyre hot before you can fit the tyres to the wheels; I boiled them in a pan until they were supple enough to fit, holding them in a vice, then pulling the rest over with your hands.
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Front wheels fitted, I soldered my kingpins rather than glued them, I didn’t think the glue would hold up. |
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The drive wheels, I have had few problems with the pins coming out of the roller bearings on the finished model, because I couldn’t get the glue to take.
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This was the solution I came up with, using a 2.5mm drill bit, drill into the bearing with the pin in place and drill into the pin a little. |
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Tap the bearing with an M3 tap.
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Using a grub screw, or like I have done use your spare M3 screws. Screw them into the bearing and the pin, use locktight to secure the screw. |
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Cut off the heads and file clean. They will still roll round and as long as you oil them, they will last you life time! |
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I made this tool for the tiger when I put the tracks together; it holds the track pin in place while it pushes the clip over the end |
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Although this is a great kit I have had lots of alignment issues. |
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I have had to make some modifications, the rear springs kept falling off when you picked up the model or raised the rear end. |
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So I have added some pins to hold them in place. |
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The Tow cable fitted |
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A few rivets added and the slot cut for the spare wheel. |
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Doors fitted with working catches. |
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Few more rivets fitted. |
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Made the rear folding ant-aircraft seat, with the correct drop down support frame. |
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Machined the seats out and hinged the top plate, not for accuracy but for ease of access, i.e. to get to the chassis bolts.
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I also thought it would come in handy for storage, plus it makes the model a little lighter. |
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Fitted the corect rifle holders |
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Fitted the tools |
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Just one shovel though |
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Krauss Maffei badge |
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Opening window made out of brass and Perspex |
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Hinges are a little bit fiddly to make |
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Side indicators made by Tim Catton. |
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Headlights working, these are the original Armortek headlights, however they have been reworked by Tim. |
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Dash not quite finished, but I’m getting there. |
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Correct unit markings for 16.Infanterie-Division (mot) |
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